I would continue to use the 2x.75" lines in each overflow as a return from sump to the tank (pressure side of the pump). If I add an additional wet to each one then it becomes a Bean. My thought was I would use the existing 1.5" drains for emergency overflows and add the full siphon drains (1", 1.25" or 1.5") to each overflow. But to do that I need to have an emergency drain. So I decided I wanted to rework everything and go to full siphon drains. When I did my initial plumbing and leak test I could get the durso's quiet but the drains in the sump where very noisy & full of bubbles (which will cause salt creep). How do you setup an overflow that works on the principle of a siphon See the Silent and Fail-Safe Aquarium Overflow project for more information. 75" returns are up close to the front of trapezoid close to where the sides meet it. The secondary pipe works like a conventional overflow. This is how I generally set them up (Herbie): 1 Cut your emergency drain pipe to be 2' below the overflow weir. With 3 overflows, it is thought you are less likely to have a failure due to redundancy (such as when a bubble tip gits in the overflow, or snails, or kori. The valve is used to control the volume of water through the main pipe. The water level in the overflow box relative to your drain pipes does matter. I believe the Ghost Overflow is designed to be a Bean Animal Overflow. This is why you often see a valve used at the sump end. Under normal operation the main pipe runs like a siphon, in that there is no air inside it. The 1.5" drain is about dead center in the trapezoid and the 2x. The bean animal overflow is designed to be as silent as possible. The overflows are shaped like an Isosceles Trapezoid with the long side being part of the back wall of the aquarium. Each overflow has a 1.5" durso drain and 2 x.
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